ZEN Knitwear is the in-house line for long time knitwear factory, Okochi Meriyasu. Founded in 1973, Okochi Meriyasu has a long history of producing incredible products for brands like Yohji Yamamoto, Sacai, and Comme des Carçons. Their motto is “まごころ,” which means sincerity, and the company particularly specializes in mid-to-low gauge knitwear. These chunkier knits are paired with top-of-the-line materials, resulting in sweaters that look ruggedly textured, yet feel delicately soft. Their factory utilizes both highly skilled artisans, as well as complex computerized knitting machines. We briefly interviewed the founder of the ZEN brand, Zendai Okochi, to understand a little more about their history and philosophy.
Q: We read that you are the third generation in the company. How does it feel to lead a company with such deep roots?
A: As the third generation following my grandfather and father, I feel a strong sense of responsibility to preserve the traditions we have inherited, as well as the techniques that have been cultivated over many years as part of our local industry. At the same time, continuing a company for a long time requires constantly adapting our mindset to the era we live in. While protecting traditional techniques, we are committed to continuing new challenges and evolving for the future.
Q: Could you elaborate on what まごころ means to you, and how it is expressed in your knitwear?
A: At our company, we value careful craftsmanship even if we are making only a single piece. Rather than mass production, we focus on small quantities, treating each garment with importance and finishing it carefully by skilled artisans. All of our manufacturing is done from the perspective of the customer—imagining how the garment will be worn and appreciated.
Q: How do you balance traditional craft with highly advanced modern technology? Can you tell us about the strengths of each?
A: In the time of my grandfather and father, knitwear was produced mainly using hand-operated flat knitting machines. Since my generation, we have introduced computerized automatic knitting machines, and we continuously push these machines to their technical limits through deep understanding and experience. Our knitting techniques are highly evaluated by our clients. While the knitting itself is done on advanced machines, the sewing and finishing processes are carried out carefully by hand, one piece at a time, by skilled craftsmen.
Video from ZEN Knit's Instagram page
Q. In your time working with prestigious brands, did you have any particularly memorable collaborations? If so, what made them exciting to work with?
A: OEM production for collection brands such as sacai and Comme des Garçons is always full of surprises. These brands place great importance on their creative vision and imagery. Our role is to translate those abstract images into tangible knitwear, and when our work is selected and incorporated into their collections, it is an especially rewarding and exciting experience for us.
Q: Could you elaborate on the materials you have chosen for the AW26 knits, and what makes them special?
A: For items ZP03-190 and ZP03-191, we use yarn from LANECARDATE in Italy. This yarn is made from Super 160’s ultra-fine wool. Although it is wool, it has a softness and warmth comparable to cashmere. Item ZP01-150 also uses high-quality Super 140’s wool; however, this yarn is spun in Japan. Japanese spinning technology is considered to be among the best in the world. The yarn is produced using the worsted spinning method, resulting in a very dense and refined material. By knitting these materials at high density, we are able to create extremely durable and substantial textiles.
We are very excited to carry ZEN Knitwear for FW26.